BEER TALK Ushers Dark Horse Porter About the beer: Ushers Brewery was founded back in 1824 by Thomas and Hannah Usher, making it the oldest brewery in Wiltshire. The brew is still derived from the orginal recipe. Just the facts: 5 percent alcohol by weight, available in Great Britain and Northeast and Mid-Atlantic regions of the United States.
Distinctive bottle, rich aromatics, and a thick head. No taste is needed to confirm the suspicion: this is a traditional English porter. But the roasted malt, deep color and intense flavor profile belie the gentle mellowness on the palate. One can almost hear the porters rummaging about, building up a thirst after a hard day's work. Sadly, there is no connection with Poe's "House of Usher," but the Dark Horse name begs for some deep association just the same.	The handsome, low-shouldered bottle unleashes a nearly black beer with a nicely sustained, rocky-tan head. The nose is pleasantly reminiscent of hot chocolate with a whiff of earthy hop. The palate is round, soft, and fruity, with broad, moderate hopping and a roasted edge, leading to a clean, dry finish. Well crafted and balanced; a very good example of the porter style. It's nice to see a British brewery returning to its roots with such finesse.	Add a shot of Sambuca to that cup of sweetened, fresh, strong espresso. No, don't bother with all of that; just encounter Dark Horse. In previous tastings, I have noted smokiness and toffee, too. What is this brew? Not really a porter, more of a big brother to Mann's, the classic southern English brown ale, made by the same little brewery (now independent after some years submerged in the Watney group).
This beer was reviewed for the September 1996 issue of All About Beer Magazine. © 1996 Chautauqua Inc.