Champions: The world
of beer competitions

Elaborate presentations, competitors lusting after gold, a glut of medals -- any of this sound familiar? In much the same fashion as other events involving the judging of merit, brewing competitions recognize exceptional beers and provide an incentive for brewers to improve their product. Gold medals, the universal symbol of quality, are the winning brewer's best advertisement.

Because of the high stakes involved in any contemporary beer judging, it's easy to understand why today's brewing competition organizers emphasize the expertise and integrity of their judges, and the sanctity of their private tastings. But these competitions also open the door to a world of flights, duplicates, marker beers, code masters and the thorny issue of hedonics vs. style.

Beer judging used to be far less complicated.

In the early days of commercial brewing, the judging of beer was largely confined to casual conversations among those who had tasted various beers in the places where they were made.

In the late Middle Ages and early Renaissance, these fireside chats focused on cities and beer styles. Wayfarers might discuss the wheat beers of Hamburg, the ales of Yorkshire or the celebrated Braunschweig Mumme. A few centuries later in the young United States, travelers touted the merits of Albany ale versus Philadelphia porter, with perhaps a word or two about the upstart lager of the German immigrants.

Comparisons pitted style against style until the late 18th century, when brewers gained enough control over the means of production to brew a consistent product on a regular basis. They could now turn their attention to competing with other brewers to win favor with the drinking public. It's obvious why the idea of an organized competition -- in which one's beers could be compared, judged and proclaimed superior -- now became very attractive.

Because beer had been a vital part of markets and fairs for centuries, the fairs and expositions of cities like Munich, Cologne and Vienna were a natural setting for organized judgings. As early as 1803, brewers began taking home medals and pointing to them as proof of their product's quality. In a world without radio or television, the fairs offered brewers their largest audience. Of course, the most avid competitors were those who sought a larger reputation and market for their beer.

Lusting after Gold

The first major US competition was the Centennial Exposition in Philadelphia in 1876, where Americans sought to equal the great European fairs. Brewers built huge exhibits, gave out souvenirs and entered their beers in the judgings, all to win medals that would impress the public with the superiority of their products.After the Paris Exposition of 1900, an American juror shed light on how many winners these competitions produced. "Out of 681 exhibits," he noted, "we awarded 531 prizes including nine grand prizes, 84 gold, 222 silver, 165 bronze, 51 diplomas or honorable prizes. America received one gold, nine silver, eight bronze medals and two diplomas."

The numbers can be explained simply enough. Every exposition was dependent upon the participation of industry. The more exhibitors, the greater the attraction, the greater the attendance, the greater the return. It would have been impolite and impolitic to send home an exhibitor, especially one who had brought products and displays from across the Atlantic, without some honor, some quid pro quo for their participation. The judges thus awarded hundreds of prizes, all of which could be used for advertising and promotion.

The St. Louis World's Fair of 1904, also known as the Louisiana Purchase Exposition, was hailed as the grandest of the era. The Pabst Brewing Co., competing in Anheuser-Busch's hometown, paraded a navy- blue brewery wagon drawn by a team of six dapple-gray Percherons in gold-ornamented harness, and entertained fairgoers at the lavish Pabst Jai Alai Cafe & Roof Garden. Not to be outdone, the St. Louis brewers set up a Tyrolean Alps concession complete with mountains, castle and restaurant pavilion. These events were among the first of what has now become an important adjunct to the multimillion- dollar brewing industry. Numerous beer judgings are now hosted around the globe, each with its own individual set of standards and objectives. Here's a look at the world's major brewing competitions:

• Brewing Industry International Awards
• Champion Beer of Britain
• The Australian International Beer Awards
• The Great American Beer Festival Professional Panel Blind Tasting
• The World Beer Championships
• The World Beer Cup
• Brewery Quality Performance Awards

Medal Fatigue?

The success and proliferation of brewing competitions testifies to the fact that a great many people have something to gain from them. In spite of the talk of "medal fatigue," the judgings, entries and awards continue to increase. What drives the phenomenon? Ego, commerce and a love of beer. Brewmasters labor in obscurity, strive for excellence and appreciate some recognition. An awards ceremony is a chance to travel, visit with far-flung colleagues, eat well, and soak up some well-deserved applause.

Brewery owners and marketers love competitions because awards sell beer. The testimonial is the most powerful form of advertising and a gold medal stands tall, an objective assessment in a world of subjective hype. The more reputable the competition, the more powerful the testimonial.

The judges love competitions because they are honored to be called upon and delighted to spend hours in the company of other brewing professionals drinking beer. (Who wouldn't be?) Organizers love competitions because they are doing the industry a great service„and can tell everyone else where to sit. Perhaps they also secretly enjoy logistical nightmares and revel in the company of contentious also-rans.

Finally, beer drinkers love competitions because the awards point the way to wonderful new beers and remind them of classics they haven't enjoyed in years. Unlike the parched travelers of the 1960s and '70s, today's beer drinkers are faced with a dazzling array of beers and beer styles.By sorting out the excellent from the merely good, today's competitions save time and money for the consumer, and elevate the beer- drinking experience for everyone.

This is part of an in-depth looking at brewing industry awards by All About Beer. You may go from here directly to any of the other parts.

• Brewing Industry International Awards
• Champion Beer of Britain
• The Australian International Beer Awards
• The Great American Beer Festival Professional Panel Blind Tasting
• The World Beer Championships
• The World Beer Cup
• Brewery Quality Performance Awards
• Judging controversies date back to the 19th century

This story originally appeared in All About Beer Magazine in November 1996.